Review 214: Glen Garioch 12 Year

Review 214

6/2/14

Glen Garioch 12 Year: 48% abv

Background: Welcome to KCM Review 214. This review is evidently different, because it is an offsite review of something I found in Montreal, Canada. Subsequently, I have no intentions of bringing the bottle back, so I figured I’d squeeze out a quick review before heading back. You might notice from the picture I’m drinking this out of a tumbler, so the aromas might not be as comprehensive as I’d like, but I’ll make due. Now onto the spirit. This is a Highland Single Malt Scotch, Glen Garioch 12 Year, bottled at an impressive 48%, non chill-filtered, and aged in a mixture of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. Glen Garioch only has a few standard offerings, with this being one of them. So is it worth your time, and at such a beefy proof?

Straight

Nose: So of course, I’m nosing this out of an improper glass, so bear with me. Despite the tumbler, there is a huge aroma of sherry, barley grain, sweet malt, tons of vanilla, and some caramel as well. The sherry is complimented by a sweet honey flavor, but is contrasted by some slight vegetal and floral flavors as well. There is a prominent oakiness to the whisky which becomes distinguishable as the flavors open up. There is also a bit of apple fruitiness, giving a nice caramel apple smell.

Arrival: The arrival starts off with a blend of nice maltiness, a beautiful caramel apple sweetness, coupled by nice sherry and vanilla sweetness. There is some citrus and pear in the arrival as well, giving a healthy blast of fruit flavors that really drag out the arrival quite intensely. The sherry is light, and is closer to a heather honey flavor than a raison flavor. There is actually a bit of cocoa as well in the arrival, which comes and goes quickly.

Body: The body shows off some powdered malt flavor, with a delicate graininess and the same fruitiness that is found in the arrival. The sherry really comes forward in the body, and there is some nice oak flavor as well.

Finish: The finish leaves you with a nice, crisp apple flavor, followed by long lasting malt and slight citrus overtones. The caramel sticks around quite a bit, but is overshadowed by some very strong vegetal notes. These are similar notes to what we saw in the Founder’s Reserve, but they seem less aggressive in the 12 Year version. Again, like the FR, the 12 Year ends dry and grainy, but has as very prominent aftertaste. There is even a bit of fresh pine in the finish as well.

With Water

Nose: With this whisky, don’t be afraid to add a little bit of water. It really can take it, and it doesn’t back down the flavor much at all. The nose is still really beefy (not literally, of course) with a large collage of spices and vegetal flavors up front, backing off from the sweeter notes. There is still a pleasant, almost confectionary type of smell to the whisky, with cookie dough and flour as aroma.

Arrival: The arrival now shows off some brilliant spice notes, with cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger all playing into the whisky. The sweetness is still prevalent, complemented by succulent berries and a beautiful array of sweet fruits.

Body: The body retains the graininess from before, but balances it out with a more refreshing, less dry palate. There is also berry sweetness in the body now, with slightly less complexity than before. This is still really pleasant, however.

Finish:  The finish is now nicely blended with oak flavors, sweet fruits, vanilla, caramel, and a lasting spiciness that was not present before. The finish has a gentle, subtle linger to it, which coats the mouth and only begs for a second round. Truly, this is a tantalizing Scotch from beginning to end.

Final Comments:  Okay, so I like it. Is it because I’m in Montreal? Not likely. Glen Garioch proved to us that they could produce a Scotch which was complex at a young age, and that they didn’t need to follow the regular rules of presentation (40%, 43%, 46%). I like Glen Garioch for their ambition, and their quality of spirit. Does this take a step up from the Founder’s Reserve? Yes, it does. This is a complex, enjoyable, and affordable whisky which should be sold everywhere, so far as I’m concerned. It could be more complex, and it could be more original, but it does so much where it is, and for the price this is a new personal favorite.

 

Why you’d buy it: You can find it, and you want to support a brilliant distillery by enjoying their brilliant product

                                                                                                          

Why you wouldn’t: You live in Michigan and can’t find it.

Score:  9.25/10

Review 204: Glen Garioch Founder's Reserve

Review 204

3/6/14

Glen Garioch Founder's Reserve: 48% abv

Background: Glen Garioch (Pronounced “Geery”) is a Highland Single Malt Scotch distillery in Aberdeenshire. These guys have been around a while, having been with us since 1797. That being said, here in Michigan, we don’t see a whole lot of them on our shelves. Although Glen Garioch offers a number of “small batch” releases, and what looks to be a standard 12 Year offering, the most common evidence of this Distillery is the Founder’s Reserve No Age Statement whisky. Of all of the statements seen of Glen Garioch, none of them appear to be below 48%. Why don’t we see more of this stuff?! A few observations: at 48% and Non Chill-filtration, this is not a whisky to look away from, not to mention the fact that it is a really affordable buy. Don’t be deterred by the fact that you might not have heard of this whisky. And we’re about to tell you why.

Straight

Nose: This Highland malt displays a very fresh, grainy smell up front, with a very mossy, green smell mixed with the aroma of malt carrying through. Slight vanilla and cookie dough layers on top of the intense grain smell, but is mostly overpowered by a rose water floral scent. The fresh grain and floral scent over-dominates the nose, but pear skin is also noticeable after the whisky opens up.

Arrival: The arrival starts sweet, and then opens up with some intense spiciness. The spiciness includes cinnamon and nutmeg, before leading into a gingery and grassy flavor. There is a slight hint of malt in the arrival, with some herbal flavors as well. After a few sips, the alcohol content of this whisky neat starts to overpower the flavor slightly. There is still some slightly fruity flavor, with grape and pear rind being most prevalent.

Body: As the body progresses, a very green flavor unfolds. There is a some bitter greens and black pepper notes that contribute to a spicy character. The whisky seems young and intense in the body, with some slight citrus zest and mild pear rind.

Finish: The finish becomes malty and contains sweet flavors of vanilla and sugar cookies. There is also some bitter greens and very subtle peat smoke and wood smoke coming through at the end. The finish is dry and fairly complex, contributing a very pure grainy flavor to the whisky. There is an amount of black peppercorn and other spices in the finish, but the higher alcohol content makes it difficult to pick out the complexities.

With Water

Nose: With just a little bit of water, this whisky starts to open up quite a bit. There is a more open fruitiness, with slight lemon and stronger pear notes coming through.

Arrival: The arrival brings on the spiciness a little bit earlier now, with a brilliant mix of sweetness and spice. This plays a perfect balance, and with a bit less of the vegetal greenness that was dominating the whisky beforehand. The whisky still demonstrates a lovely complexity, but balances the whole ensemble a bit better. Some caramel is noticeable after water as well.

Body: The spice in the body is really dominant now, with an almost salty presence. There is still the sugar cookie sweetness in the body, contradicting the spiciness, but it still balances really well. It isn’t as ideal as in the beginning, albeit it maintains an enjoyable status.

Finish: The finish maintains the grainy, vegetal quality from before, while leaving a trail of intense, hot spiciness to enjoy. There is still a major peppercorn and classic Highland malt grain, with a tinge of wood smoke and oak char.

Final Comments: In general, this is what I would describe as a great entry level Scotch for the more mature Scotch drinker. This is the opposite end of the spectrum from your sweet Speyside Glenlivet 12 Year, having earthy, vegetal flavors aplenty and a warm, strong spiciness to enjoy. Although this whisky isn’t necessarily for the faint of heart, it is a very good offering. I think it would be a treat for anybody who had a more eclectic pallet for Scotches. If we ever see another bottle of Glen Garioch in Michigan, there is no doubt we will want to try that one too.

 

Why you’d buy it: You are looking for the complexity and quality of an affordable Highland malt with earthy flavors.

                                                                                                          

Why you wouldn’t: You still haven’t realized that Glenlivet and Glenfiddich aren’t the only Scotch whiskies out there.

Score:  8.5/10