Whisky Rage #2: Bourbon whiskey vs. Tennessee whiskey

Bourbon Vs. Tennessee Whiskey

Whiskey Rage #2

10/30/13

A few weeks ago, I wrote an article about removing age statements from Scotch in a fit of rage. It finally got to the point where I had to blow off some steam. Well, here we are again, and I’m not happy. I got in an argument about Tennessee Whiskey. It would seem that, if you want to impress your friends about your knowledge of whiskey, you will tell them that Jack Daniel’s ISN’T bourbon, it’s Tennessee Whiskey. WELL NOW, excuseeeeeee me. I seem to have forgotten the fundamentals of reading labels. *Nasally voice* “Well the label on Jack Daniel’s doesn’t say bourbon, does it”. Well John Doe, you aren’t just messing with any angry whisky drinking fireball. You’re messing with an angry whisky drinking fireball who does his research!

Unfortunately, if you type in a Google search about whether or not Tennessee whiskey is bourbon, a number of “credible” sites will tell you “Of course not! It’s made in Tennessee and charcoal filtered”. So Tennessee has succeeded in its goal of brand differentiation. The whole world of semi-educated drinkers will obstinately refute the idea that Jack Daniel’s is in fact bourbon. So why do I choose to argue that, and go against the flow of contemporary drinkers? Because I don’t just go by what one link on the internet tells me. So let me start with the facts:

Bourbon, as we all know, is a 51% corn mash whiskey, sour mashed or otherwise, aged in virgin White Oak barrels for at least 2 years, and made in the United States. NO, it doesn’t have to be made in Kentucky, and if you say it does, then may I please refer you to Prichards, Journeyman Distillery, Two James, New Holland, and the hundreds of other distilleries that are currently making bourbon outside of Kentucky. Don’t believe me? Look it up! The point is, there is a legal definition of bourbon, and Tennessee whiskey fits all of the parameters for being bourbon.

“But angry yelling man, Tennessee whiskey is charcoal filtered and that makes it different than bourbon!” Ahh, yes it is. Most of it, anyways. Prichard’s actually makes Tennessee whisky, labeled as Tennessee whiskey, that isn't charcoal filtered. In fact, Prichard’s makes a bourbon too. Do you know what the difference is? The difference is the kind of corn they use (white corn [Tennessee] instead of yellow corn [bourbon]).

Do you still think that charcoal filtering differentiates Tennessee whiskey from bourbon? Well what if I told you that Kentucky bourbon Ezra Brooks is charcoal filtered as well, and it’s STILL BOURBON. And by the way, Brita filters are also charcoal filters, so if you think Jack Daniel’s isn’t bourbon, I better not hear you calling your water “water” after it comes out of your Brita pitcher! It’s Tennessee H₂O, fine sir (bru ha ha). I bet you’re still arguing that Tennessee whiskey isn’t bourbon because somebody said it wasn’t.

Well then, let me ask you another question. Let us say that Jack Daniel’s decides to make a rye whiskey (they have, by the way), and charcoal filter that rye whiskey (which they probably will). Do we then say that because that whiskey was made in Tennessee and charcoal filter, it isn’t a rye whiskey? What do we call it then? Jack Daniel’s Tennessee² whiskey? I would postulate that when Jack Daniel’s comes out with a rye whiskey, they will call it a rye whiskey (they call it "unaged Tennesse Rye" at this point). So scientifically speaking, if making rye whiskey in Tennessee doesn’t change the fact that it is rye whiskey, why would we apply that logic to bourbon?!

I bet your asking now, if you have bothered to entertain my argument, “So why is there so much information out there saying Tennessee whiskey isn’t bourbon?” The answer is simple, and as frustrating as it is, it’s because Tennessee whiskey distillers WANT you to think they’re different. Why? It is brand differentiation. If Jack Daniel’s was just another bourbon, would it really be all that much more appealing than the cheaper Jim Beam alternative, or even worse; Ezra Brooks? I highly doubt it, when you’re having your $5 Jack and Coke. Brand image is what most of these companies survive on, and they’re succeeding in it.

I don’t blame anybody for thinking that the two of them are different, because even though NAFTA defines Tennessee whiskey as a type of bourbon, we hear all the time that they’re different. That being said, if you’re at the bar with somebody who ACTUALLY knows what they’re talking about, and you try and impress them with your knowledge, all you’re doing is making yourself look like an ass.

Afterthought: I’m not advocating going to Tennessee and arguing that Jack is bourbon, unless your fixing to get shot. Your safety is your own responsibility.

Review 166: Jim Beam Rye

Review 166

6/18/13

Jim Beam Rye Whiskey: 40% abv

Background: Jim Beam is obviously a big player in the world of bourbon, and if you are taking Jack Daniels out of the equation, they are the biggest. Rye Whiskey, as we may or may not have stated in the past, is in the stages of resurgence after its staggering loss of popularity post prohibition. Bourbon gained more traction because of its sweeter, more pleasant flavor, whereas the intense, spicy nature of rye quickly fell out of favor from the general public. It looks like the public has grown a pair again, and since the big guys have caught wind of it, they are jumping on the bandwagon. It isn’t as if Jim Beam Rye has been put on the shelves yesterday, so it probably seems like it has always been there, but on the cosmological scale of whiskey, this is a coming back in the Rye world. The question becomes, does Jim Beam do this well, or should we keep walking past the now-iconic bottle to something less recognizable.

Straight

Nose:  Right off the bat, you get a burning intensity from rye whiskey that could arguably be much less pleasant than bourbon, but don’t let that deter you on. Smell on. Once you get past the initial intensity, you will find a little more rye grain coming through to add. You will get some vanilla and anise coming into the nose after the whiskey starts to open up. There is a modest hint of caramel that layers over the aromas. There is an interesting sense of creamy, fruity notes coming through, akin to bananas and light yellow apples and other tropical notes. There is a sense of spiciness coming through, but it is pretty ambiguous and light.

Arrival: The arrival to this Rye whiskey, is surprisingly creamy, with some banana from the nose coming into the arrival. This is complimented by a sweet corn smoothness. There is some rye and malt grain coming through, with big vanilla flavor. There is also a slight oakiness. The flavor is surprisingly mild in the arrival, and does not to elude to a very dynamic body or finish.

Body:  There is a buttery, vanilla, and oak flavor coming through in the body. It is actually rather sweet, and non-obtrusive. The rye character is pretty light, and doesn’t really present the full intensity of what a rye whiskey can be. Surprisingly, there is more of a corn-flavor dominance coming through in the body, than the rye character.

           

Finish: The finish is probably the most intense part of the whiskey, imparting a peppery, rye, character to the whiskey, with a light brininess counterbalancing the peppery nature. There is a corn flavor that comes through. There is a minty character that works into the end as well. The finish is still not very dynamic, and although the whiskey has flavor that is enjoyable, it is pretty non-complex. There is some sweet fruitiness coming through later in the finish, but it fades down rather quickly.  Fruit flavors might include berries and golden apples, but it was hard to pick out. The finish isn’t terribly long, nor is it terribly short.

With Water

Nose: Well, as per last time, the grainy intensity comes to the forefront. The nose is pretty similar after adding water. The creaminess is still there, if not amplified from before. With that being said, there is no major transformation to the aromas coming out of here.

Arrival: Well, the arrival is certainly a mellow experience here, with almost nothing happening without swishing the rye around in your mouth. A blanket taste of vanilla starts off, but as you let the whiskey sit, an intense spiciness creeps into the picture. This lives through the body and finish as well.

Body: The body translates some of that spiciness into gingerbread and cinnamon flavors, but carries over the general feel from before. Some of that banana and cream type flavor that was seen before is now just as lively as before water was added.

           

Finish: The finish, disappointing, becomes much duller after some water is added to the equation. Unfortunately, due to the fact that this whiskey sits at 40% abv, there isn’t a whole lot of room for growth. That does detract, and it should come as no surprise that the results of adding water can be a little bit deterrent from the already meek flavor.

Final Comments:  This is, in fact, a whiskey worth buying. Now, that does not mean it is terribly complex, nor does it mean it bears semblance to the classic rye whiskey. This takes on a contemporary approach to the rye flavor, with a little modesty. This sits comfortably close to the Jim Beam bourbon, probably by design. I think we would see this rye come to life if only they didn’t cut it down nearly as much. At 46%, this would be a great buy, albeit the rye content is probably awfully close to 51%. We would venture a guess that much sweeter grains were used in this mash, and it takes away some of the influence of the whiskey. We’d also conjecture that this would do better with another two years in the barrel. At the end of the day, you won’t go home crying if you buy this whiskey, but you might consider some others before pulling the trigger. Hopefully, we will be helping with that in the future.

Why you’d buy it: You want a soft introduction into rye whiskeys on a budget.

Why you wouldn’t: You really already know about the world of rye out there, and know there are better gems to be found.

Score: 7.25/10

Review 130: Basil Hayden's 8 Yr Bourbon

Review 130

1/10/13

Basil Hayden’s: 40% abv

Background: Basil Hayden’s is one of the four bourbons in the Jim Beam Small Batch family, and sits at 8 years old. This one is known as the lightest of the four bourbons, as is indicated by the proof of the whiskey, being at a modest 80 proof (40%). The Basil Hayden’s bourbon is named from Basil Hayden, Sr. who was a Maryland Catholic who led 25 Catholic families into Kentucky. Turns out, Hayden was also a distiller (who would have thunk?) who used a large amount of rye in his batches. His grandson Raymond Hayden founded a distillery known as Old Grand-Dad, which we still see bottling bourbon today. Here’s the deal: this bourbon is made by Jim Beam. All this history just tells you where it came from. Let’s see what it turns out to be like. 

Nose: Oak, corn, subtle rye, wheat, honey, cinnamon sugar, mint, allspice

A/W: More Floral

Arrival: Light honey, oak, caramel, vanilla, sweet, thin

A/W: Same

Body: Sweet, light, honey, mint, ginger, corn, caramel

A/W: Big oak, sweet, lightly floral

Finish: Herbal, mint, cherry sweetness, wheat, hot cinnamon, rye, oak, vanilla, dry, medium length

A/W: Same

Final Comments: Basil Hayden’s is clearly not the most complex bourbon on the market, and you pay quite a penny for it. It starts to beg the question, then, if it is worth the money. The positive part is that it has a good balance of flavors, it is a sweet bourbon, and it is certainly a quality whiskey. The bad news is that it is expensive and it isn’t an engaging whiskey. 

Why you’d buy it: It’s a smooth alternative to regular bourbon and you like having a nice social status.

Why you wouldn’t: You want to pay less for more, and Buffalo Trace exists.

Score: 7.5/10

Review 93: Jim Beam Black Label Double Aged

Review 93
8/24/12
Jim Beam Black Label Double Aged: 43% abv

Well, since I’m the main “editor” of KCM’s reviews and I’ve pretty much been failing at my job due to having real jobs, I haven’t been too invested in writing up reviews. Fret not, because KCM has been doing reviews! We just haven’t gotten around to posting them. So here is one. Jim Beam Black Label is the upper class of the Jim Beam line, before you get into the Small Batch products, like Booker’s (We’ve reviewed Booker’s, so check it out!) What a good showing by Jim Beam, this one. Just off of presentation, they do a good job with this one. It starts off telling you its age, at 8 years. Young compared to our Scottish whiskies, but still a decent age. We don’t make a big deal out of price, but if you’re bargain shopping for whiskies, (I’m not talking to you college blonde drinking Mohawk vodka) this is the way to go. You’ll be pleasantly surprised to find that Black runs you in Michigan around $25 a bottle. For that, you get a 43% bourbon with good flavor, simple presentation, and good quality. Is that a spoiler alert? Yes. Yes it is. “M” quickly cited at the beginning of the review that he noticed a note of bourbon in the bourbon...there’s always got to be something that doesn’t help anybody.

On the nose though, you get a light nose, which opens up over time. This nose will make you work to get the scents you might be looking for, but be patient with it. It is a rewarding experience when you get around to it. Let’s see what we dug down for. Bourbon always has some sweetness in the nose, even though there is often harsh spiciness to be found as well. Indeed there is sweetness, and many layers of sweetness. Caramel, honey, vanilla, confectioner’s sugar, and malt all greet the nose, but it’s at different times that you’ll start to realize it. Interestingly, there are some other notes which we found to be compelling. There is a small hint of mint that you’ll catch if you pay attention, with gingerbread, wheat and unripened banana also nestled in the aroma. There isn’t a ton of complexity to the smell, but it certainly has some compelling aspects to it. There was enough to it that we were excited to try it. When we tried this bourbon, we were pleasantly surprised.

On the arrival, you can find molasses, caramel ginger, and cinnamon. There is a nice, healthy spiciness to this bourbon, but it doesn’t overpower you. Once again, Jim Beam wants to throw some curveballs at you, so what have we found that you don’t expect to hear in a bourbon review: Blackberry, malted barley, and sugarcane. There is some slight rye to it as well. But hey, not too shabby for a cheap bourbon. We don’t have a lot to report on the finish, but it doesn’t disappoint either. It is a medium length finish, lingering slightly. There is wheat, barley, molasses, a large amount of oakiness, ginger, and vanilla involved in the finish. It isn’t complex, but it certainly is enjoyable. And on that bombshell, here’s what we roll this up to be. A less than powerful, but still wonderful expression of Beam, which wouldn’t be too bruised by going up to 46% abv. It is good, and we enjoy a healthy dram of it. We think you will too. 
Score: 8.0/10

Review 91: Jim Beam White Label

Review 91
8/22/12
Jim Beam White Label: 40% abv

Alright, in a new series of liquors, we will be reviewing bourbons to build up a cache of reviews, to give you an idea of what’s out there. And what is the quintessential bourbon? It’s on the top of the review, you idiots. There is no bigger name in the world of bourbon than Jim Beam. So let’s talk about what makes bourbon...well...bourbon! Jim Beam, found in Clermont, Kentucky is one of several Kentucky distilleries to produce legendary whiskey. So for all of you Michigan folks, you might not realize how close you are to a hub of real history. Bourbons don’t have to be made in Kentucky to be considered bourbons, like Scotch’s do in Scotland, but there are other strict regulations on bourbon. Several of these include being made up of 51% corn, being aged in never-before-used white oak casks, normally Hogshead or ASBs, and being TOTALLY AWESOME. Jim Beam does go back a while, but we want to focus on what it is right now, and what it should be. Jim Beam creates a range of products, many of which you might be familiar with, including their double aged, their 5 year, Red Stag’s line, and their Rye whiskey, along with their small batch whiskey’s and many others. Today’s attention goes to the one you’ve probably had the most of, if you’ve had Jim Beam: the White Label standard. The most affordable, eclectic of all the Jim Beam’s. So a practical review for the practical bourbon drinker? Is it only good in a mint julep, or on the rocks, or can it be drank straight, as a grade-A sipping drink.

On the nose, KCM found the standard, classic bourbon smell, with sweet notes of honey, caramel, corn, wheat molasses, cherry and a decent oak note. This surprised us, considering its young age of 4 years. The nose is not terribly complex, but does provide standard sweetness and burn you’d expect from this spirit.

The arrival will lend itself to oak and molasses notes, leading into stronger oak on the body, with honey, cinnamon, wheat and caramel. We were honestly not very impressed by the lack of complexity to the flavor, but it lent itself to strong flavor, nonetheless. The finish is spicy, with cinnamon and ginger to it, and some cereal notes of rye. The sweetness isn’t gone, keeping the honey, but adding some cherry as well. Unfortunately, when you get different notetakers, you also get different notes. Some of the other things we concluded about Jim Beam was that one of our reviewers thought that the spirit was called Jim BEAN, and that this same reviewer smelt some stenographer(????) on the nose. Also, the reviewer in question thought that easy listening might include Rage Against the Machine. So there you have it, some unrelated notes to Jim Beam that completely add nothing to this review! And what do we score it? Well, for the price, it isn’t at all a bad spirit, with good quality and pleasant flavors, but it certainly lacks the complexity and uniqueness that we expect out of top-tier whiskies. So it get’s to be somewhat of a middle man. 
Score: 7.5/10

Review 64: Booker's Bourbon

Review 64
6/16/12
Booker's Bourbon: 64% abv

Yeah, this isn't a beginner's drink. That 64% is noticeable. Booker's Bourbon is part of Jim Beam's "Small Batch" series, along with Knob Creek, Baker's and Basil Hayden. The name comes from Booker Noe, a recent master distiller of Jim Beam. Why is this bourbon so high in alcohol? It is a cask strength whiskey, which means it was pulled straight from the cask without being watered down. So here's the scoop.

The nose is complex, but burns heavily. One can smell vanilla, butter,brown sugar, caramel, honey, corn, and wheat before any water is added. With the addition of a few teaspoons of water, the nose opens up to reveal more vanilla, some berry sweetness, molasses, maple, and substantially less burn. There is extreme flavor in this bourbon, including brown sugar, molasses, oatmeal, wheat, a soft pre-cookie mix (the kind that has only butter, flour, and shortening in it), caramel, nutmeg, gingerbread, earthy, maple, and oak. After adding water, the taste is more dry, keeping grainy and introducing slight malt, cinnamon, and slight apple, with even some herbal notes on arrival. The finish becomes apparent, keeping several characteristics from the taste. The finish has spicy notes, corn, barley, rye, maple, caramel, malt, with some cream and ginger. After adding water, there is more malt, oatmeal, with the inclusion of allspice, and earthiness. The finish is medium short, which makes this bourbon less than perfect. This is a wonderful statement, and if you can handle the higher percentage alcohol, it's a real pure and flavorful bourbon. Water is highly recommended. 
Score: 9.5/10