Review 152: Compass Box Flaming Heart

Review 152

3/31/13

Compass Box Flaming Heart 4^th Edition: 48.9% abv

Background: Well, to our utter dismay, Compass Box doesn’t have a Wikipedia page yet, so we need to go off of other sources for our “exclusive knowledge”, but let’s start with this. Compass Box is NOT a distillery; in fact, far from it. Compass box is a Scotch whisky blender. All of CB’s whiskies are blended whiskies, most of which are blended malts, but some of which are uniquely blended grain whiskies (you will seldom find a Single Grain Scotch Whisky in these parts). If you’re interested in a blended grain whisky, look up Compass Box’s Hedonism. Compass Box hasn’t been around for too long, with John Glaser having started up the business in 2000. In fact, it was not too long ago that we saw first signs of Compass Box crop up in Michigan, and boy were we excited. What’s not to like about what CB is doing? They’re bottling at higher proofs with more natural “non chill-filtered” presentation and natural color. This particular limited edition bottling takes the craft aspect to an almost Bruichladdich level. It is a whisky made up of single malts from Islay and the Highlands, so a mixture of smokey richness and sweet-bodied fruits should be expected. This one is aged in new French oak casks, which are frankly not used enough in Scotch maturation. This particular Flaming Heart was bottled in August of 2012 and only 9,147 bottles were produced. As I mentioned before this is a natural presentation and is bottled at 48.9%, which is over-proofed.

Straight

Nose: Well, as you would expect from a malt blend containing peated Scotch, there is some peat on the nose, but don’t mistake this as having the same presence as a Laphroaig. Instead, the peat couples nicely with notes of subtle smoky campfire, nuttiness, agave and sea salt. The fresh French oak brings out the vanilla oak notes, while dry fruits and a subtle malt note underpins the whole ensemble.  

Arrival: The arrival will be an exciting moment for you, and surely you’ll be rewarded by the wait. The nuttiness in the nose prevails in the arrival with some almond hinting through, but truly the peat takes the attention. This isn’t a tobacco-like, dry peat taste like Kilchoman gives you. It is indeed smoky and spicy, with a hot, cayenne-like presentation up front and a mild counterbalance of sweetness.

Body: The body contains notes of peat, creamy vanilla, and some tropical, but mellow fruit types. It took us a while to pin down exactly what we were experiencing, but other sources have sited guava as a potential note.

           

Finish: There is a gentle peat note, vanilla, sweet apple, and sea salt coming through. The whole experience isn’t brutalized by the proof of the alcohol, but it is worth seeing how much change there is with some water.  

With Water

Nose: With water, the nose brings out some more harsh intensity in the smoke and alcohol, with the vanilla coming through and an added sweetness akin to rock candy.

Arrival: The arrival reflects the aforementioned sweetness, being significantly sweeter than before, but also brings out some drier notes and a big vanilla presence. 

Body: The body is again sweet, with a balance of sweet and smoky notes like before.

           

Finish: The peat in the finish, after a few teaspoons of water, is subtler, while fruit and spice notes climb through. There is red grape, spices, more oak, prominent agave, and some subtle grain notes which start to get added.

Final Comments: This is definitely an enjoyable and challenging whisky, and to be honest, we might not have done it justice in this review, but for us, this is a learning experience. This malt blend represents a highly crafted spirit with a nice contrast of peat smoke and sweetness/spiciness. The peat isn’t too commanding, but it still has that quality of a good Islay Scotch. I don’t know if this competes on a full scale with the likes of Caol Ila, but it is not trying to be a Caol Ila either. We hope to see more distilleries bottling at higher proofs like this, and we hope to review more Compass Box in the future.

Why you’d buy it: It is a great blended malt Scotch and you like that it is limited edition

Why you wouldn’t: You can’t get it in your area.

Score: 9.25/10

Review 151: Bushmills Blended Irish Whiskey

Review 151

3/26/13

Bushmill’s Blended Whiskey: 40% abv

Background: Bushmills is a distillery you probably know, being the counterpoint to Jameson. Bushmills real claim to fame is being founded in 1608, over 400 years ago. Not many distillers can say that. Sir Thomas Phillipps got the license to distill in that year, making Bushmills the “undisputed” oldest distillery in the world. This being said, the company wasn’t established fully until 1784, so the numbers might be a bit misleading. Production capacities at Bushmills don’t hold a candle to Midleton’s, but that might account for the difference in quality…Bushmills has a mixture of slightly peated and unpeated barleys that they use, as well as a unique crystalized barley (moist barley that is heated at high temperatures so it dries and converts starches to sugar, caramelizing the barley). The grain whiskey used in Bushmills blends actually comes from Midleton distillery. Diageo, the owner of Bushmills has been pushing to increase sales more than double in the next few years, and that is a scary thought. Onto the tasting notes.

Straight

Nose: The nose in here is distinctly dominated by an under-ripened pear rind, with vegetal notes of wet grass and fresh greens. There is an earthy fruit note associated with the pear, with mild apple sweetness in accompaniment. There are slight vanilla and honey notes, as well as a floral note (maybe violet?) with a subtle backdrop of saltiness.

Arrival: The arrival is not the most eventful part of the whiskey, with a very smooth entry. It has an alcohol-like initial mouth-feel, with some mild vanilla and ginger/nutmeg spiciness coming through very timidly. It is followed by an unconvincing bitterness that follows into the body.

Body: The body is spicier than the arrival, with some hot notes and bitter black pepper to dry it out. It contrasts this with some sweet honey and pear notes, although it is still quite like the arrival. It doesn’t leave a lasting impact.

           

Finish: This follows the body with a much larger sweetness, pulling lemon, apple, and pear sweetness out. There are some minor complexities to the finish as well though, including a tiny peat smokiness, some ginger aftertaste, and a very impactful vegetal aftertaste, giving you the impression of green barley.

With Water

Nose: The nose in this one changes substantially after just a bit of water. The pear peel is still a strong note, but it initially appears to be slightly more vegetal, even a bit oily and nutty as well. These subtleties will diminish with time though.

Arrival: The arrival after the addition of water is initially mellow and promotes vanilla, with some serious sweetness, very close to what you’d experience from rock candy.

Body: The rock candy sweetness keeps going in the body of the whiskey after the arrival melds into your mouth. The body doesn’t promote an extreme difference, but you can tell the sweetness is amplified.

           

Finish: You might go so far as to say there is a tequila-like agave presence in the finish after adding some water, although close to honey. Even some bourbon-like maple notes come through.  The fruity/sugary finish is bold, almost over dominant now, commandeering any attention from the complex notes you might have caught before. There is still a small “zestiness” to the finish which could raise a few eyebrows.

Final Comments: Unfortunately, there is no option but to compare this to Jameson Blended Irish Whiskey. They are at the same price point, marketed to the same people, and drank exactly the same. I would like to suggest that this is wrong, but in some way, it is the only thing promoting some sense of quality between these two distilleries. Which one do we think is better? In my mind, Bushmill’s is undoubtedly the winner of this fight, with much more complexity, a more refined taste, and some interesting perks to it. That being said, I also believe it doesn’t compete with Kilbeggan, and that’s a theme we keep going back to. To go even further, KCM believes that Black Bush is the better alternative to both of these choices, and you aren’t paying that much more. For the drinker looking for an easy sipper, I think you’d be surprised with how this sips neat with a controlled portion of water.

Why you’d buy it: You’re going to buy Bushmills or Jameson, and Black Bush is “too expensive”

Why you wouldn’t: You’ve tried Black Bush and realize it’s worth the extra ___ dollars.

Score: 8.25/10

Review 150: Redbreast 12 Yr

Review 150

3/12/13

Redbreast 12 Year Pot Still: 40% abv

Background: Redbreast is another whiskey out of Ireland, but the whiskey comes from the Midleton pot stills in Cork. Now recall that in Scotch whiskey, all single malt scotch is aged in pot stills, whereas Irish whiskey can be produced in column stills which are a faster and cleaner process. This isn’t considered a great think to some, because grain whiskey (produced in column stills) tends to lack certain flavor that they strive for in Scottish distilleries. So when you see an Irish whiskey that is pot stilled, you can assume it to have a much different character than your traditional blended whiskeys you buy for $20 or so. The second thing we’d like to emphasize is that Irish whiskey uses malted and unmalted barley in production. Malted barley is taxed differently in Ireland, so the Irish found out that they could get favorable results out of a mixture of barleys by triple distilling their whiskey, instead of double distilling like is done in Scotland. This saved money and also produced a smooth, unique spirit that stood out from Scotch. Redbreast, triple distilled in pot stills, represents one of these whiskeys that checks all the boxes, although we are still frustrated with the abv being at 40%. Maybe a more craft presentation will come forth with time. 

Nose: Oaky, honey, barley, wheat, acidic white wine, graham crackers, cinnamon, floral rose notes, slight hints of rough alcohol (nail polish)

            A/W: creamy, oaky, slight solvent notes, lemon candy, grape

Arrival: Soft, grainy, vanilla, slight spice

            A/W: No significant change

Body: Vanilla, oak, spice, hot cinnamon, ginger

            A/W: Tart, citrus, sugar, rock candy, more creamy, balanced

Finish: Lemon candy, charred oak (ashy, slight roasted nuts), berry, ginger, heather honey, cinnamon, caramel

A/W: Citrus, more herbal, vegetal

Final Comments: Redbreast jumps ahead of the other Irish whiskies in the game, simply because it is a more complex alternative to the blends. It is characteristically Irish because it is a clean, fresh tasting whiskey, with that traditional Irish taste to it. You can certainly suggest that Irish whiskey is easy to spot out of a crowd, and this isn’t an exception. We struggle to see why we are paying $50-$60 for a spirit at 40% abv, but that doesn’t take a lot from the whiskey. This isn’t the most complex whiskey, and compared to a lot of Single Malt Scotches, it frankly doesn’t hold a candle to them. Still, it could be worth your consideration this holiday season.

Why you’d buy it: You want an upgrade from the basic Irish whiskey choices

Why you wouldn’t: You want something that will shake your foundation.

Score: 8.75/10

Review 149: Powers John's Lane Release 12 Year

Review 149

3/11/13

Powers John’s Lane Release 12 Year

Background: Powers is a whiskey company from Ireland. That first sentence is hard, because technically they aren’t a distillery. This particular whiskey is a single malt pot stilled from Midleton Distillery in Cork, Ireland. A fun fact for the readers out there: Midleton is the only company producing single malt pot stilled whiskey for companies right now. So Powers has multiple whiskies in their range, but this one, the “John’s Lane” Release, is a unique limited edition to their line. John’s Lane, as put in quotations, is the name of the distillery John Power used to have. Clearly, it is no longer in business and Pernod Ricard owns them. Powers is actually the bestselling Irish whiskey in Ireland, selling 6 million liters per annum. They have a Gold Label and a 12 Year offering, so this special edition falls outside that, being aged in oloroso sherry and bourbon casks. We don’t want to bias anything, but it was also the Whiskey Bible’s Irish Whiskey of the Year. Now watch as we make you cringe at the sound of the nose.

Nose: Vanilla, strawberry, caramel, dry pepper, light lemon, red grapes, earthy, oaky, lake water, glue, cotton

            A/W: Rose, green melon, honey, barely, leather, cream, sawdust, opens up, more balanced

Arrival: Spicy, hot, berries, mild sherry, cinnamon, apple, fiery, lemon

            A/W: Creamy, lemon candy, blue airhead, spicy, green apple

Body: Grape, fruity, cinnamon, sweet apple, gingerbread, maraschino cherries

            A/W: Green apple tartness, lingering spice

Finish: Berries, strawberry, blueberry, lemon, cinnamon, charred oak, orange, vanilla, mint, wheat

A/W: Blueberry, green apple, lemon candy, ginger

Final Comments: This might strike you as an interesting list of characteristics, and certainly, for the novice drinker, the nose will probably be off-putting, but it makes a unique statement and makes you search for flavors. When you get into the taste of the whiskey, you will find it is intense, with initial spiciness coupled with a sort of ironic berry fruitiness which doesn’t kill you with sweetness, but certainly provides a stark contrast the experiences of before. The finale throws it all together, and before you know it you’re left in awe because you don’t know if you tasted an Irish whiskey or a firework. It interestingly totes a few bourbon characteristics with the charred oak and vanilla characteristics before adding water, but after you add water you’ll start to experience a much more Irish ordeal, for better or worse. We think two teaspoons of water makes the animal too docile, and we think it should be a more free whiskey. Needless to say, this isn’t a starter’s whiskey, and it is by no means a typical Irish whiskey, but it is fantastic and will keep you in your seat for a minute.

Why you’d buy it: This is a complex, challenging whiskey, and it is unique to Irish Whiskey. So you’d buy it if you wanted to be different than all of your Jameson drinking pals.

Why you wouldn’t: You don’t quite want to experience a whiskey like this, and its rather expensive for a 12 year old whiskey. ($80 in MI)

Score: 9.5/10

Review 148: Michael Collins Blended Whiskey

Review 148

3/10/13

Michael Collins Blended Whiskey: 40% abv

Background: Michael Collins was a Irish Revolutionary leader who lived from 1890-1922, who also played a lot of political roles as well. We don’t want to get into history a whole lot, but I did want let you know what this whiskey refers to. And it should come as no surprises considering the fiercely patriotic nature of the Irish heritage. And surely, Collins seemed like a noble figure, dying in a firefight instead of fleeing his men on a transport vehicle as others had wished of him. Cheers to your bravery, Mr. Collins. What about the whiskey, you are screaming now I imagine. Michael Collins is distilled at Cooley distillery, and they produce two different types of whiskey: blended and single malt Irish whiskey. Today, we are reviewing the blend, which is interestingly double distilled, not triple distilled. When we get to a Redbreast review, I will talk about why triple distillation is preferred for Irish Whiskey, but until then, we’ll move on. This particular whiskey does not have an age statement. 

Nose: Strong, hot, honey, apple, wheat, slight vanilla, slightly bitter wood, corn, dry vegetal notes, not complex, lacking in flavor

            A/W: Fruiter, more open, more enjoyable

Arrival: Bitter start, creamy, vanilla, lemon, grapefruit, slight spice notes

            A/W: Fruitier, sweeter, sugar notes, apple, pineapple

Body: Bitter fruit, alocohol-like body

            A/W: Brings forth fruitiness, sugar, pineapple, apple, bitter tea, and still retains dry character

Finish: Bitter grapefruit, sweet lemon and honey, peach, hot, spicy, dry spice, pepper, bitter tea

A/W: Bitter, fruity, sweetness, better balance

Final Comments: Michael Collins is certainly a strong-minded whiskey, not having the smooth integrity that Jameson or Bushmill’s flaunt. That doesn’t make this whiskey less unique, but it lacks smoothness and we question if the fermentation wasn’t slightly rushed on this whiskey. At any rate, you wouldn’t be shocked that this came from Cooley distillery, and there is no surprise that this isn’t triple distilled. This whiskey, at 40%, does not stand out or appear to shine in the face of competition, but it does add some unique, difference that you won’t get from the Jameson or Bushmill’s labels at that price point. But as long as Collins is standing out, KCM believes they should stand out at 46%.

Why you’d buy it: You want to try something other than the traditions, and you’re not afraid of roughness

Why you wouldn’t: Kilbeggan offers you the same uniqueness without the roughness.

Score: 8.0/10

Review 147: Jameson Blended Whiskey

Review 147

3/6/13

Jameson Blended Whiskey: 40% abv

Background: Jameson is most ubiquitous Irish whiskey in the world, and in fact, could be considered the face of St. Patrick’s Day alongside Guinness in America. To scale this whiskey, we wanted to expand on how big it really is. Jameson Irish Whiskey is produced by Midleton distillery in Cork, Ireland. When we looked at Scotch distilleries, 6 million liters of capacity a year is a huge amount of capacity, but in Ireland, that would be laughable. That is because there are currently four working distilleries in Ireland. Midleton has capacity for 19 million liters a year, and they use it. Jameson’s Blend takes a mix of malted and unmalted barley (or green barley) and triple distils it. This is mixed with grain whiskey and you’ve got a cheap whiskey. That being said, we find it to be extremely fashionable and buy it on a massive scale. So how does this compare to their Scottish counterparts?

Nose: Young, slight burn and alcohol, light citrus and honey, fresh pine wood, herbal parsley notes, grassy, fresh grain, green grape

            A/W: Very green in character

Arrival: Light, sweet, lemon candy, sugar, slight zing

            A/W: No notable change

Body: Sweet, sugar, lemon, alcohol, quinine, vanilla

            A/W: Alcohol presence more notable

Finish: Lemon candy, sweet, sugarcane, slight bitterness, herbs, light honey, light spice, vanilla, subtle saltiness, alcohol and grain, bitterness

A/W: bready, slight yeast

Final Comments: Jameson is certainly well known, but like Jack Daniels, the quality of this whiskey is almost irrelevant to most people. The idea is that if it’s smooth and easy to drink, people will buy it. This is certainly the truth with Jameson, and the flavor is telling. It is certainly smooth, but the quality isn’t there. When we reviewed Kilbeggan, we were impressed by the quality and complexity. This is second tier to that, but yet the price of Jameson Blend continues to rise. This is a plea to reconsider what you spend your money on, and why. Encourage the increase of quality spirits from Ireland. More minor distilleries are cropping up in Ireland, and it is the consumer’s responsibility to emphasize what you want to enjoy.

Why you’d buy it: You’re about tradition.

Why you wouldn’t: For St. Patties day, you’d like to try something better or encourage the growth of smaller distilleries, or send a message to Jameson to tell them you want a more engaging experience.

Score: 7.5/10

Review 146: Right Brain CEO Stout

Review 146

3/5/13

Right Brain CEO Stout: 5.5% abv

Background: Right Brain is the brewery we’re talking about today. Why? Because we reviewed it, that’s why. The guy who owns Right Brain Brewery will tell you a nice story about how he named his brewery. The gentleman in question to a test in high school to determine whether or not he was a “right-brained” thinker or not, and his teacher told him he took it wrong, seeing as he was the only one in the class who was right-brained. So he named his brewery to spite his teacher. Right Brain Brewery is in Traverse City, and they will tell you that they don’t have a boring beer they make. KCM accepts the challenge.

Nose: Coffee, vanilla, woody, chocolate/fudge, malt, brown sugar, mild grain and earthy notes

Arrival: Slightly bitter, earthy coffee, cocoa, light, slight tartness, blackberries, wheaty

Body: Wheat, malt, cocoa, coffee, vanilla, slightly watery

Finish: Vanilla, coffee, wheat, cocoa, slight berry sweetness

Final Comments: There was unanimous decision that there is nothing exciting about this beer among our panel. It isn’t an imperial stout, but a nice 6% stout doesn’t have to be watery. This one is, and it is a shame. The arrival starts off with some interesting characteristics to it, albeit a little on the translucent side, but by the time the body comes on, your hopes for an engaging, exciting experience jam packed with flavor have disappeared. There is a hint of unique flavor coming through in the beer, but to our frustration they’re overshadowed by the holey nature of water in the flavor. That’s not to say you won’t enjoy this beer, it’s just that we can think of a few beers for the same price that are so much bigger in flavor.

Why you’d buy it: You like sticking it to the man, which in this case is the founder’s high school teacher.

Why you wouldn’t: Dragon’s Milk

Score: 7.5/10