Review
221
9/16/14
GlenDronach
18 Year Allardice: 46% abv
Background: Here we
are, back at GlenDronach distillery in the Highlands of Scotland. After the 12
and 15 Year core offerings is the 18 Year Allardice. The 18 Year is non-chill
filtered, natural color, and bottled at a perfectly respectable 46% abv. It is
aged in exclusively Oloroso Sherry butts. GlenDronach then, is giving you
another option in the world of sherry malts, which seems to be growing in accessibility.
The challenge is, can producers like GlenDronach keep up with the demand for
sherry whiskies without the ability to obtain good sherry casks due to the
reduction in demand for sherry.
Straight
Nose: In comes the sherry storm, with a torrent of
deep, rich fruit aroma that overwhelms the senses. Red grape, raison and
vanilla are big players in the nose right off the bat. Small spurts of malt
smell become noticeable, but are really dominated by the other flavors. Dried
fruits and cranberry are detectable in the nose, with the sense of old oak and
floral notes of garden flowers. As the whisky starts to open up, more
complexity of sweet honey, apples, and even slight amounts of caramel are
present. The nose is definitely rich, but the initial alcohol intensity in the
nose tempers down to a less brutish, complex blend of rich sherry malt flavors.
Arrival: As
expected, sweet, syrupy arrival takes on the malt. The arrival doesn’t tend to
last a long time, with some spiciness, malt, and sweet grapes noticeable.
Sweet, candy like (maybe even bubblegum) sweetness is also ever present in the
arrival, which makes for a bizarre transition into the intense palate of the
whisky. There is an ample amount of vanilla in the arrival. In general, this
arrival seems like it lacks the complexity expected, and could be described as
sort of flat.
Body:
Similar to the 15 Year, the 18 does have a nice, spicy body. The finish
is fairly long and enjoyable. A quick dash of heat, with red wine and grapes
makes the body more
unique. There is something savory about the body, and despite its relative
intensity, the fruit flavors are not as pronounced as we’d like.
Finish: Conclude
with that semi-savory, scrumptious malty finish. Bitter, burnt oak will become
noticeable as you sip on this whisky more. You’ll find a hot, almost thin grapy
flavor that comes into the finish, almost in an artificial nature. There is
more oak complexity, some slight pine-like flavors coming out in the finish,
and just a tinge of cough medicine like flavor. You could argue there is a bit
of saltiness in the finish as well, but it doesn’t at all define the whisky.
With Water
Nose: The
nose is demonstrating much more floral and somewhat maltier. The sherry has
subsided substantially, but some of the complexities are also not as prominent
as before.
Arrival:
The arrival shows off more complex, well rounded fruitiness, with apple
and pear present. There is some soft spices and vegetal notes present. There is
a dry woody flavor in the arrival that translates into the body.
Body: After
adding water, a much more noticeable, succulent fruitiness is coming forward in
the whisky. It isn’t hard to spot the tannins and grape sour flavor coming out
of the body, plus allspice and nutmeg, but there is a strained emptiness
halfway through the body.
Finish: There
are much more manageable spices in this whisky now, with heavy tannins and
bittersweet green tea notes. Unripened, tart fruit notes are easily found in
the finish, which is sort of unique, but in some ways it actually detracts from
the overall flavor of the whisky. There is still soft maltiness and some
confectionary notes here. The finish ends up shorter and somewhat less
pronounced than before, but does offer up more complexity with better flavors.
Final Comments: This
is one interesting whisky. It seems to be battling to get the right things
across, but never quite succeeds in doing it. I’m not sure exactly what holds
this whisky back, but it just doesn’t have the complexity and balance it needs
to be a true winner. The price doesn’t help the equation either. It is evident
that there should be better flavors with better quality going on. It doesn’t
make this bad by any means, but it does miss on a couple of key components. It
seems as if better casks would make this a better whisky, but chances are that
won’t be happening. There is something that makes this whisky really suffer,
but I’m not sure what it is.
Why you’d buy it: You’re
a patron of Glendronach
Why you wouldn’t: You can
get their Single Cask whiskies for less, and with better quality and a higher proof.
Score: 8.25/10
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