Review
210
4/13/14
Old
Pulteney 17 Year: 46% abv
Background: We’re
back to Old Pulteney. We released a podcast with Old Pulteney whiskies as a big
cameo. The 12 Year has been the KCM quality per dollar pick for quite a long
time; and by a long time, we reviewed that whisky back in November of 2012. But
what about a more premium, older Old Pulteney? Is that same quality from the 12
Year present in older expressions? It’s in the name, after all. The answer to
that question can be found by looking at the 17 Year, which is a single malt at
46% and un-chill filtered. Some fun facts about Old Pulteney: They are limited
to one wash still and one spirit still, contributing to a very limited
production of one million liters per year. Also, if you take a look at Old
Pulteney’s stills, they are very uniquely shaped, which might contribute to the
very unique flavor that their whiskies have. Now it’s time to put this more
expensive whisky to the test.
Straight
Nose: Well
this doesn’t disappoint the maritime coastal theme that Old Pulteney totes
about in their advertisements. The nose is instantly salty, with a fresh smell
of seawater. It is so prevalent in this whisky, I can’t think of anything else
like this. There is a rich maltiness that couples very nicely with a tropical
fruitiness. The tropical fruit notes include tangerine, mango, and melon. There
is also a slight vanilla note, which tends to take a back seat to the salt
blast. The oakiness from the cask is hard to depict in the nose, but there are
subtle layers of spices that come through evenly. There is also hints of floral
notes that surface occasionally. The balance in the nose is extremely
enjoyable, allowing for a full exploration of the flavors present.
Arrival: The
arrival starts off with the tropical fruit notes and maltiness. There is a nice
presence of oakiness, along with a load of spiciness. The arrival is probably
the thinnest part of the whisky, still having plenty of complexity. It is a
little lighter, and hides some of the salty character of the whisky.
Body: This is
where the salt really kicks into the whisky. Along with a very dominant note of
sea salt, orange marmalade and tropical fruit notes invade the senses here.
This is such a bombastic body in the whisky. There is some nice caramel,
vanilla, and beefy spices that come forward in the body. There is also some
sugarcane that shows up.
Finish: The
finish really drags out the saltiness, along with a nice fading of malt and
tangy fruit notes. There is a very vegetal aftertaste to this whisky, with a
slight hint of leather and sawdust as
well. There is plenty of cloves and allspice, with dashes of ginger and nutmeg
that also play into the finish. There is definitely reminiscence to a chai tea
when you get further into the finish.
With Water
Nose: The nose
has become much more floral, with more hints of vanilla and caramel coming
through up front. The whisky starts to smell slightly more alcoholic now, with
the tropical fruits and saltiness still being dominant notes. There is also a
slight instance of baking soda in the nose now, coupled with an older note of
leather polish. There is a strange note of over-ripened apples and even a bit
of perfume to the nose.
Arrival: The
arrival becomes more spicy and the tropical aspect of the fruit flavors is more
exaggerated. There is a more candied lemon flavor in the arrival now, with some
spicy oak moving into the body. The maltiness also comes out much more now than
it did before.
Body: The
fruit flavor is huge here in the body now, bringing out a very tangy, tart,
delicious blend of tangerines, orange, and lemon. It is a truly amazing
experience. It doesn’t become so tart as to mask the coastal notes of this
whisky, but the flavors do pop in a beautiful fashion.
Finish: The finish surprisingly takes an intensely
bitter, oaky turn after some water is exposed. It is by no means unpleasant,
but it does present a different edge to the Scotch. The tropical fruits are
still present, along with some other sweet and salty flavors, but the wood
really plays into the whisky now. The spiciness is still a strong component.
There is even hints of tobacco in the finish now.
Final Comments: So
this is a salty, coastal Highland malt that distinguishes itself from a lot of
its competitors. The 12 Year Old Pulteney made us interested in the distillery,
the 17 Year made us fall in love. It is an intense one and it isn’t for the
faint of heart, but if you want to get more adventurous, this is an all-time
KCM favorite. This whisky wins points for complexity, balance, and uniqueness,
and with just a bit of water the blasts of flavor just get better. I would go
so far as to say if I had to drink one whisky for the rest of my life, at this
point this would be the one. We highly recommend you give this a try if you get
the chance.
Why you’d buy it: Because
at this very moment, we’re telling you to.
Why you wouldn’t: You
don’t want to try something with the intensity that this whisky has.
Score: 9.75/10
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