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KCM Spirit Reviews

Monday, December 17, 2012

Review 123: Pampero Aniversario

Review 123
Pampero Aniversario Reserva Exclusiva: 40% abv

We are talking another quick look at rums today, and for that we have all the way from Venezuela, Pampero. Now, these marketing folks always like to piss me off with their stupid marketing nonsense, but I guess we’ll start with the facts. Venezuelan rums tend to be rich rums, and this little guy is no exception. This rum was bought purely because it comes in a leather satchel, and we’re always suckers for packaging. Now Pampero might not be a big player in the world of rums, but it certainly is unique, and at a reasonable price, deserves a second look. Unfortunately for it, it is shredding against the big dogs like Appleton Estate, Mount Gay, and El Dorado. 

It appears as if some marketing monkeys have compared this rum to having better complexity as a sipper than Cognac or Scotch, so here’s my five minute rant. Complexity is not defined by what the spirit is, but rather the quality of the spirit and the craftsmanship involved. Pampero does have some things to be said for it, but I can think of a number of Scotches that would leave it to the dust. Therefore, let’s not compare apples to oranges, and stick with the fact that this is indeed a good rum. 

And it is. Let’s look at what we found in it: On the nose, there is a huge creamy molasses note right up front, with cocoa, maple wood, nutmeg, gingerbread, banana, apple, strawberry, caramel, powdered sugar, honey and vanilla all being present. This is a relatively complex nose, but the theme here is sweet. It certainly contrasts the rums we’ve had in the past, so that’s good. 

When you start tasting this thing, you realize that the sweetness in the nose isn’t just made up. And rich it is. This is certainly a sipping rum, because there’s nothing else you could do with it. Interestingly, the arrival is big, and provides you with cinnamon, molasses, caramel, sugar, cream, mint and even some raisons. It is complex and up front, and it doesn’t make you wait. The body contains a big sherry raison taste, and keeps up with the molasses. The dark sweet notes of caramel, nutmeg, maple, and vanilla keep the body full, with additional notes of cherry, cinnamon, black pepper, nutmeg, banana, coconut, and mint. 

The body is busy, but not impossibly complex. The finish is dark, and has the most prominent presence of raisons and sherry, but keeps most of the notes of the body, with some powdered sugar and honey to add. And granted, this is not a bad thing. This rum is different and unique and, if enjoyed slowly, is an easy smooth sipper for anybody who enjoys a sweeter rum. As we reviewed this one, we grew into it a little more. It takes understanding, but even for those who don’t particularly seek the sweeter of rums, this can be enjoyed. 

Score: 8.5/10

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